Burst fade: what it is and how to ask for it

What a burst fade is

The name comes from the shape: the fade "bursts" outwards from the ear in an arc. The hair right at the ear is the shortest, and it grows longer the further you go from it. The fade does not wrap horizontally round the back of the head, so the back and the nape are not faded down: they keep their length and weight.

That is what separates it from a standard fade, which runs straight round the whole head at the same height. A burst fade follows the shape of the ear and leaves the back and the top to stand out. It is often called a "mullet fade" when it is paired with a mullet.

Burst fade vs low taper fade vs drop fade

• Burst fade: fades in a semicircle round the ear. The back stays long.
• Low taper fade: fades only the sideburns and the neckline. The ear is not faded over.
• Drop fade: the fade line drops down behind the ear, following the curve of the head, so it is lower at the back than at the front.

If you want a conservative cut, a low taper is the safer choice. If you want the side of the head to be short and clean but the back left long, that is a burst fade.

Who it suits

Anyone who wants the back and the top to stay long and the sides short: a mohawk, a mullet, curls or twists on top, a longer textured top. It works on straight, wavy, curly and coily hair. It is a bolder cut than a low taper, so it is not the best choice for a very conservative dress code.

How to ask for it

Burst fades vary in how far the arc goes and how short it gets, so a photo settles it.

If you do not have one, say the name and the places:

It also helps to say how short you want the fade to go (down to the skin or a very short grade), whether you want the neckline blended or left natural, and how long you want the back.

Looks that go with a burst fade

• Burst fade mohawk
• Burst fade mullet
• Curls, twists or waves on top
• Textured crop or a longer swept top
• Burst taper fade: the same arc, but not taken down to the skin

Keeping the arc sharp

The fade round the ear is what grows out first, because the hair there is the shortest. Most barbers suggest a tidy-up every two to three weeks to keep the arc sharp. The longer back is easy to keep, and a matte paste or clay or a curl cream suits the top.

Find a barber near you

Burst fades vary from barber to barber, so look at the barber's own photos before you book. Pick your city to see barbers with their opening hours, walk-ins and online booking, or search by postcode.

Questions

What does "burst fade" mean?

It is a fade that "bursts" outwards from behind the ear in an arc, rather than running level round the head. The sides go short around the ear, and the back and the top keep their length.

Is a burst fade just a mullet?

No. A mullet is about the length at the back; a burst fade is about how the sides are cut around the ear. They are often done together, which is why people mix them up, but you can have a burst fade with a mohawk, curls or a crop and no mullet at all.

Is a burst fade the same as a drop fade?

No. A burst fade goes round the ear in an arc. A drop fade drops down behind the ear, so the line is lower at the back.

Is a burst fade the same as a low taper fade?

No. A low taper fades only the sideburns and the neckline and does not go over the ear. A burst fade goes round the ear and takes the side of the head short.

Can I have a burst fade with a beard?

Yes. Ask for the arc to run into the beard rather than stop at the sideburn.

How often should I get it cut?

Every two to three weeks keeps the arc sharp. The back and the top can go longer between cuts.